I ordered a replacement main spring and am thinking if it too is too strong for the trigger/sear/pawls to reset, I was going to thin the sides of the main spring to reduce the force of the main spring. Far more force than any other revolver I own. The hammer strikes the primer with a lot of force. I have fired the pistol and lock up is as new. The sear has been polished and its pin and the holes for the pin are nice and round free of any burrs.The sear does not bind. The sear behind the trigger seems to "feel" as if that is where the bind is occurring,but it is not there if the main spring is removed. The main spring is very strong but is smooth to pull the hammer back with the trigger. Own the original This is a legitimate antique and not a reproduction. The trigger spring is also weak, so that one must push the trigger forward for the hammer to stay in cock. As I push the trigger forward, you can see the main spring being pushed back by the hammer about 1 MM and is causing a binding force the trigger spring cannot overcome without my help. The cylinder axis pin latch’s spring is worn out. Somehow, the main spring is causing the hammer to drag on trigger re-set. If I double up the Wolf spring with two springs the problem is still there adding the extra force to return the trigger does not help. The spring has at least one pound of force returning the trigger. When the trigger is released it moves to "home" by the trigger spring with no problem at all. Now, if I remove the main spring from the frame of the pistol,and point the muzzle towards the floor, and pull the trigger all the parts move so smoothly its like a hot knife through butter. When the trigger is pulled back and dried fired, it will not return to "home" without a push on the back of the trigger shoe towards the front of the frame. The problem,I think is the main spring for the hammer it too strong. 32 rimfire cartridges, although double-action revolvers chambered for. I have polished all the internal parts and they are now very smooth and mesh very well. Most were small caliber single-action arms which utilized either. I have completely disassembled the pistol and cleaned it in my ultrasound tank and oiled it as needed. 22 Caliber (5.5mm) Iver Johnson Model 55 Target Short Long LR Double Action Revolver NO CA 230620TW024. PRICE: 105.00 MANUFACTURER: Iver Johnson CONDITION: Used MODEL: Hammerless SOLD: 12:00:00 AM. The new spring fits very well,does not bind and returns the trigger to "home" with no effort at all. .32 S&W Hammerless Iver Johnson Break Top-Type Revolver. I purchased the Wolf trigger spring pack kit and fitted the leaf spring into the trigger guard/frame bottom. Please read and understand what I'm about to write and not just jump onto "its the trigger spring", please. 32 "short" pistols since the 60's I want to get this pistol going again, but there is a problem I just cannot get rid of. The pistol is in very good condition with a bright shiny bore. 32’s (primarily the First Models) were designed to use cartridges made with black powder, an antiquated ammunition propellant that hung around until the widespread adoption of smokeless powder during the first few years of the 20th Century. It had a broken trigger spring as you'd expect. Additionally, it’s important to note that some Iver Johnson break-top. I was given an Iver Johnson top break hammerless.
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